Mirza Sheikh I’tesamuddin: The Mughal Munshi Who Saw Europe Before Empire Fully Changed the World
For centuries, travel writing about India was dominated by outsiders.
Greeks described India.
Chinese monks described India.
Arab geographers described India.
Portuguese merchants described India.
English ambassadors, chaplains, factors, doctors, and adventurers described India.
Then someone from India looked back.
Mirza Sheikh I’tesamuddin was an eighteenth-century Indo-Persian scholar, munshi, diplomat, Mughal courtier, and travel writer from Bengal. Around 1765–66, he left India as the Persian secretary of Captain Archibald Swinton on a diplomatic mission connected with Emperor Shah Alam II’s appeal to King George III. The official mission failed before it truly began because Robert Clive withheld the emperor’s letter and gift, but the failed embassy produced something historically precious: one of the earliest South Asian accounts of Europe written from firsthand experience.
His book, Shigurf Nama-e-Vilayet, usually translated as Wonderful Tales of Europe or The Wonders of Vilayet, was written in Persian around 1784. It describes the sea voyage, France, Britain, London, Oxford, Scotland, theatres, social customs, education, religion, gender relations, wealth, labor, manners, and the political systems of Europe. The original Persian manuscript remained unpublished, but an abridged English translation by James Edward Alexander appeared in 1827, and Kaiser Haq later produced a modern English version titled The Wonders of Vilayet.
The word Vilayet is crucial.
In South Asian usage, it came to mean Britain or Europe — the far western world of the Firinghees. For I’tesamuddin, Vilayet was not just a place. It was a mirror. He went there at a moment when India’s political order was changing violently: the Mughal emperor still existed, Persian was still a language of prestige, but the East India Company was becoming a territorial power in Bengal. His journey came just after the Company received the Diwani, or revenue rights, of Bengal, Bihar, and Orissa from Shah Alam II in 1765.
That timing makes his travelogue extraordinary.
He was not a colonial subject in the later nineteenth-century sense.
He was not a British-educated reformer visiting London after empire had hardened.
He was not a tourist.
He was not a missionary.
He was not a Company servant writing loyal propaganda.
He was a Persianate Indian intellectual standing between worlds.
Behind him stood the fading Mughal order.
Around him stood the expanding Company state.
Before him stood Europe, newly powerful, strange, impressive, vulgar, energetic, and morally unsettling.
His journey is therefore not just a travel story.
It is a record of India looking at Europe at the very moment Europe was learning how to dominate India.
A Munshi From Bengal
I’tesamuddin came from the village of Panchnoor in Nadia district, in present-day West Bengal. Banglapedia gives his likely dates as around 1730 to around 1800 and describes his family as learned, pious, and long connected with administration, law, and scholarship. His education prepared him for the career of a munshi, a Persian secretary, scribe, scholar, interpreter, and diplomatic expert.
The word “munshi” should not be translated too casually as “clerk.”
In eighteenth-century India, a munshi could be a highly educated intellectual professional. Persian was the language of administration, diplomacy, elite correspondence, and legal-political culture across much of Mughal and post-Mughal India. A good munshi knew not only writing, but style, etiquette, law, poetry, political language, genealogy, accounting, and negotiation.
I’tesamuddin belonged to that world.
This matters because he did not go to Europe as an unlettered curiosity. He went as a trained observer. He had the intellectual tools to compare civilizations. He could understand courts, documents, treaties, etiquette, hierarchy, and statecraft.
He was not simply seeing Europe.
He was reading it.
Company Service and Mughal Service
Before his European journey, I’tesamuddin worked mostly in East India Company employment.
Banglapedia records that he began under Major Park, witnessed military campaigns, served alongside Company officers, worked as a paymaster, accompanied Captain Mackinon during conflict with Mir Qasim, served as a tax collector, and later entered service under Colonel Carnac. After an audience with Shah Alam II and events around Kora-Manikpur, he was offered a position as munshi at the Mughal imperial court and received the title Mirza, elevating him to courtier status.
This double career is central to his identity.
He knew the Company from inside.
He knew Mughal political culture from inside.
He knew Persianate administration.
He knew Indian warfare.
He knew European officers personally.
He knew the fragility of late Mughal power.
This made him the ideal person for a delicate mission.
Shah Alam II needed someone who could explain the emperor’s Persian letter and political position to the British king. Captain Archibald Swinton could carry the mission, but an Indian munshi was needed to interpret meaning, not just words. Banglapedia says Shah Alam himself suggested that an Indian well-versed in Persian accompany the mission so that the letter could be properly explained.
That is why I’tesamuddin was chosen.
He was not luggage on a British journey.
He was the intellectual key to the mission.
The Failed Embassy to George III
The mission was meant to carry Shah Alam II’s appeal to King George III.
The Mughal emperor, surrounded by enemies and dependent on shifting alliances, wanted British military support. After granting Bengal’s revenue rights to the East India Company, he sought direct protection from the British crown. According to Banglapedia, a letter and a gift of 100,000 rupees were to be sent from Shah Alam to George III, and Captain Swinton was entrusted with the mission.
But Robert Clive blocked it.
Banglapedia says Clive withheld the emperor’s letter, claiming there was no point in sending it before the accompanying gift arrived; later, I’tesamuddin discovered in England that Clive had suppressed the letter and presented the money on his own behalf. The reason, Banglapedia explains, was that Clive wanted to prevent direct contact between the British monarch and the Mughal emperor, because such contact might bypass Company authority.
This is the political heart of the story.
The Mughal emperor wanted crown-to-crown diplomacy.
The Company wanted to control the channel.
Clive understood that direct Mughal-British royal communication could weaken Company power.
So the mission was allowed to sail, but its purpose was hollowed out.
This means I’tesamuddin’s journey began as diplomacy and became unintended travel literature.
Had the letter reached George III, he might have become an official Mughal envoy at the British court. Instead, because the mission failed, he became an observer of Britain.
History lost one diplomatic meeting.
It gained a travel book.
The Sea Voyage
I’tesamuddin left India in 1179 AH, corresponding to 1765–66, and returned in 1183 AH, corresponding to 1769–70. Banglapedia’s entry on Shegurfnama-i-Vilayet gives these dates and identifies him as the Persian munshi of Captain Archibald Swinton.
The sea voyage itself mattered deeply.
For a Bengali munshi trained in Persianate administrative culture, the ocean was not just transport. It was a threshold into another order of life. Ships rearranged hierarchy. Food changed. Prayer changed. Space changed. The rhythms of the body changed. The passenger had to live among Europeans at close quarters, surrounded by sailors, strange technology, new dangers, and unfamiliar forms of discipline.
Modern catalogues of The Wonders of Vilayet note that his journey to Britain by sea took in places such as Mauritius and the Cape.
This route placed him inside the maritime empire that was beginning to reshape the world.
The Mughal order had been land-centered, court-centered, river-centered, caravan-centered. The Company’s power was increasingly sea-based, credit-based, gun-based, and document-based. On the ship to Europe, I’tesamuddin was moving through the infrastructure of a new global order.
The sea was not neutral.
It was part of Europe’s rise.
Vilayet as Wonder and Unease
The title Shigurf Nama-e-Vilayet means something like “Wonderful Tales of Europe” or “Wonder-book of Vilayet.”
Wonder is not simple admiration.
Wonder includes surprise, delight, confusion, suspicion, and moral disturbance. I’tesamuddin was fascinated by Britain, but not overwhelmed into submission. Peepal Tree Press describes him as “highly educated, culturally self-confident,” curious about alien cultures, frank about India’s decline and Europe’s ascendancy, and also sharply critical of British moral habits.
That balance is crucial.
He admired Europe’s organization, learning, wealth, public institutions, and energy. But he did not simply bow before it. He judged Europeans through Indo-Persian, Islamic, Mughal, and elite South Asian values.
He looked at Britain and asked:
Why is it powerful?
Why is it rich?
Why are its people so energetic?
Why do they work so hard?
Why are its women so visible in public?
Why are its theatres so powerful?
Why are its habits so morally questionable?
Why has India declined?
Why has Europe risen?
This is not passive wonder.
It is comparative thought.
London Through Persian Eyes
London became the center of his European experience.
Orient BlackSwan’s edition description notes that he wrote about theatre, circus, freak shows, Oxford, Scotland, and the socio-political system of Britain. Cambridge’s chapter summary adds that his London experience included parks, theatres, ballrooms, Shakespeare’s King Lear, John Gay’s The Beggar’s Opera, and pantomime farce.
This is a remarkable cultural scene.
An Indian Muslim munshi from Bengal sits in London watching Shakespeare. He watches The Beggar’s Opera. He sees pantomime. He observes public entertainment, mixed-gender sociability, urban spectacle, and theatrical illusion.
The theatre mattered because it revealed Europe as performance.
British society did not appear to him only through Parliament or royal ceremony. It appeared through stages, costumes, songs, comic acts, women in public, public pleasure, and crowds. He saw that European power was not only military or commercial. It was social, cultural, theatrical, and urban.
This is why his travelogue is so alive.
He does not only describe government.
He describes amusement.
Oxford: The Madrassah of Europe
I’tesamuddin visited Oxford.
Banglapedia says he visited Oxford and met university professors there, speaking highly of both London and Oxford. Orient BlackSwan’s edition description notes his visit to the “madrassah of Oxford,” a phrase that beautifully translates the English university into an Indo-Islamic educational category.
This phrase matters.
By calling Oxford a kind of madrassah, he did not merely imitate British categories. He translated Britain into his own intellectual world. He understood Oxford through the idea of a learned institution, comparable in function to Islamic and Persianate centers of education, even if very different in form.
This is reverse ethnography at work.
European travelers often described Indian institutions through European words: temples as churches, sadhus as monks, rajas as kings, madrasahs as colleges.
I’tesamuddin does the opposite.
Oxford becomes a madrassah.
Britain becomes the object of classification.
Scotland and the Highlands
I’tesamuddin also visited Scotland.
Peepal Tree and Orient BlackSwan both note that his memoir includes his impressions of Scotland or the Scottish Highlands. This is significant because many Indian accounts of Britain later focused mainly on London. I’tesamuddin saw more than the imperial capital.
Scotland gave him another Britain.
Not only London’s theatres.
Not only Oxford’s learning.
Not only courtly or diplomatic circles.
But northern landscapes, Highland people, regional difference, and the diversity within Britain itself.
This matters because travelers often generalize too quickly. One city becomes a whole civilization. I’tesamuddin’s movement beyond London helped him see Britain as internally varied.
For an Indian observer used to the diversity of Hindustan, that mattered.
Europe was not one thing.
Britain was not one thing.
The Firinghees were not one thing.
He noticed difference within the West.
Religion and Identity
I’tesamuddin’s Islamic identity is central to the travelogue.
He encountered Christians, churches, biblical ideas, British moral codes, alcohol, gender mixing, theatre, and social habits that challenged his own values. Cambridge’s chapter summary argues that by the end of the narrative, his identity shifts from admiration toward Britain to a more ascetic Muslim stance that prefers elite Mughal society and its own gender and moral codes.
Peepal Tree’s edition description says the relationship between I’tesamuddin and Swinton eventually broke down, largely because Swinton failed to take the Mirza’s Islamic faith and cultural identity seriously.
This is one of the most important emotional arcs in the book.
At first, Europe fascinates him.
But fascination does not mean surrender. The longer he stays, the more he feels the pressure of difference. Swinton and others seem to want him to adapt too far. Banglapedia says Swinton and friends tried to persuade him to stay in England as a Persian teacher and even tried to induce him to marry an English woman, but he refused.
This refusal matters.
He could admire Europe without becoming European.
He could learn from Britain without dissolving into Britain.
His journey is therefore not assimilation.
It is encounter.
Women, Visibility, and Moral Shock
Like many early modern and eighteenth-century travelers, I’tesamuddin was deeply struck by gender relations.
British women’s public visibility, social freedom, dress, conversation, dancing, and presence in theatres and gatherings challenged elite Indo-Muslim norms of modesty and gender separation. Cambridge’s chapter summary notes that his narrative moves through parks, theatres, and ballrooms and includes complicated reactions to English women.
This part of the text needs careful reading.
Modern readers should not simply laugh at him as conservative, nor should they accept his judgments uncritically. His observations reveal the clash between different systems of gender, honor, public space, and class respectability.
European travel writers often eroticized Indian women, judged purdah, or commented on Indian marriage. I’tesamuddin reverses the gaze. He looks at European women and judges European society through their visibility.
The power of the text lies in this reversal.
Britain becomes strange.
European habits become the customs needing explanation.
The Firinghees
I’tesamuddin uses South Asian categories for Europeans, including the idea of the Firinghee.
This term carried layers: foreigner, European, Christian, Portuguese-derived outsider, and more broadly Western person. In his writing, the Firinghees are not simply powerful. They are morally complicated. Peepal Tree notes his impressions of British moral codes and even his comments on the “filthy habits of the firinghees.”
This is important because it shows that Europe was being ethnographically judged.
European travelers often wrote about “Hindoos,” “Moors,” “Banians,” “Brahmins,” “Gentiles,” and other categories that flattened Indian society. I’tesamuddin’s “Firinghee” performs a similar act from the other side.
He uses a broad category.
He observes, criticizes, admires, and generalizes.
This reminds us that all travel writing classifies.
The question is not whether travelers classify others. They always do. The question is what those classifications reveal about the traveler’s own world.
I’tesamuddin’s Firinghee is a mirror of Indo-Persian Muslim elite self-understanding.
Swinton: Companion and Failure
Captain Archibald Swinton was both companion and problem.
He was the British officer with whom I’tesamuddin traveled, and he seems to have been generous and helpful in some ways. But the relationship deteriorated. Peepal Tree describes the narrative’s account of their relationship as touching and cautionary, noting that the friendship broke down chiefly over Swinton’s refusal to take I’tesamuddin’s Islamic faith and cultural identity seriously.
This is a deeply human part of the travelogue.
Cross-cultural friendship often begins in curiosity and usefulness. It can survive the journey when both sides respect boundaries. But if one side treats the other’s identity as something to be overcome, the friendship weakens.
Swinton wanted him to stay.
Others wanted him to teach Persian.
They tried to arrange an English marriage.
He refused.
The failed mission was political.
The failed friendship was cultural.
Together, they shaped the memoir.
Why He Returned
When I’tesamuddin realized the mission had failed, he wanted to return.
Banglapedia says that after understanding that the letter and presents had not been delivered and that the mission had no purpose, he decided to return, despite attempts to persuade him to remain in England.
This decision should be respected.
He did not cling to Europe.
He had seen enough to be fascinated, but not enough to abandon home. His return was not failure. It was an assertion of identity.
In later Indian travel writing, the West often becomes a site of education, reform, modernity, and comparison. For I’tesamuddin, it was also a place of moral risk. He saw European power, but he did not want to become European. He remained rooted in the world of Islam, Persian learning, Mughal etiquette, and Indian elite culture.
This is why he is so different from Sake Dean Mahomed.
Mahomed traveled west and made a life there.
I’tesamuddin traveled west, observed deeply, and came back.
The Vilayeti Munshi
After returning from Europe, I’tesamuddin became known as the Vilayeti Munshi.
Banglapedia notes that on his return he became a local celebrity and received this nickname, meaning the munshi who had been to Vilayet.
This nickname is charming, but also serious.
Travel gave him social capital. He had seen what others had only heard about. He had crossed the ocean, visited London and Oxford, watched European society, and returned with stories. In a world where direct knowledge of Europe was rare among Indian elites, that made him valuable.
He became a living archive.
Before the book circulated widely, the man himself was the book.
People wanted to hear what Vilayet was like. He had become the interpreter of Europe.
Later Diplomatic Work
I’tesamuddin did not disappear after the European journey.
Banglapedia says he reentered Company employment and became involved in diplomatic maneuvers connected with the end of several years of warfare with the Marathas. In 1775 he accompanied Colonel John Hamilton to Poona for peace talks and acted as an emissary to Maratha officials such as Nana Fadnavis, helping draw up a treaty with Captain Vansittart’s assistance.
This later career matters because it shows that he remained a working political figure.
He was not only a traveler.
He was a negotiator in a changing India, where Mughal authority, Maratha power, Company expansion, and regional diplomacy overlapped. His Persianate skills remained useful even as British power grew. The Company still needed munshis, interpreters, treaty-writers, and men who understood Indo-Persian political culture.
I’tesamuddin belonged to the last great age of the Persian munshi.
His career shows the transition from Mughal India to Company India.
Writing the Shigurf Nama
I’tesamuddin wrote Shigurf Nama-e-Vilayet around 1784.
Banglapedia says he began writing at the request of friends and to distract himself from the disorder he saw around him, likely alluding to conflicts such as the Company’s wars in the Deccan against Tipu Sultan.
This motive is revealing.
He wrote not immediately upon return, but years later, when India had changed further. Memory and crisis shaped the book. He looked back at Europe while watching India’s political world become more unstable.
This may explain the comparative seriousness of his reflections.
He was not merely saying, “Europe is strange.”
He was asking, “Why has Europe risen while India has fallen into disorder?”
That question would haunt Indian intellectual history for the next two centuries.
I’tesamuddin asked it early.
Manuscripts and Translations
The original Persian text was not printed in his lifetime.
Banglapedia says the manuscript is preserved in the British Library in London and the Khuda Bukhsh Library in Bankipur, Bihar. It also notes that James Edward Alexander published an abridged English translation in London in 1827 under the title Shegurfnama-i-Vilayet or Excellent Intelligence Concerning England, Being the Travels of Mirza I’tesamuddin.
The 1827 translation is important but problematic. Banglapedia calls it abridged, and the Shegurfnama-i-Vilayet entry calls it defective. A 2023 scholarly article on early Persian travelogues of Europe notes that Alexander’s translation omitted parts of I’tesamuddin’s account expressing negative views of Europeans in Asia.
This matters enormously.
European translation softened the Indian critique.
That means modern readers must be careful. The text reached English through a colonial filter before later scholars and translators recovered more of its complexity. Kaiser Haq’s modern version, The Wonders of Vilayet, helped bring the work to contemporary readers, and Orient BlackSwan describes it as the first complete English version.
The travelogue’s own journey — Persian manuscript, flawed English translation, Bengali translation, modern English version — is part of its meaning.
Even the book had to travel through power.
Reverse Orientalism
I’tesamuddin’s work is often discussed as a reverse travelogue.
Peepal Tree calls The Wonders of Vilayet “a salutary addition to Western accounts of the ‘Otherness’ of India,” describing it as “orientalism in reverse.”
This phrase is useful, but it needs care.
I’tesamuddin did not simply invert European Orientalism in a modern academic sense. He did not have the same imperial power over Britain that British writers later had over India. His gaze did not rule Europe. His descriptions did not help an Indian empire conquer Britain.
But he did reverse the direction of observation.
Europe became the strange place.
British customs became customs.
Oxford became a madrassah.
Theatre became spectacle.
Women’s public presence became a social puzzle.
Christian society became an object of religious judgment.
Firinghee habits became ethnographic material.
That reversal is historically powerful.
It reminds us that Europe was not naturally the observer of the world.
Europe could also be observed.
Compared With Sake Dean Mahomed
I’tesamuddin and Sake Dean Mahomed are two of the most important early South Asian figures in Britain, but their journeys differ sharply.
I’tesamuddin went to Britain as a munshi attached to a failed Mughal diplomatic mission. He wrote in Persian and returned to India. Sake Dean Mahomed went to Ireland through East India Company military networks, wrote in English, married Jane Daly, opened the Hindoostane Coffee House, and settled permanently in Britain.
I’tesamuddin represents Indo-Persian India looking at Europe.
Mahomed represents Indian experience entering English print and British entrepreneurship.
I’tesamuddin preserved distance.
Mahomed reinvented himself inside Britain.
Both reversed the European travel gaze.
But one returned as the Vilayeti Munshi, while the other became an Indian-British public figure.
Together, they mark the beginning of South Asian self-representation in Europe.
Compared With Mirza Abu Taleb Khan
Mirza Abu Taleb Khan came later and also wrote about Europe.
Oxford’s Exploring the West groups I’tesamuddin, Mirza Abu Taleb Khan, and Lutfullah Khan as major South Asian travel writers who described Europe in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.
This lineage matters.
I’tesamuddin was an early figure in what became a broader genre: Indians traveling west and writing back. Later travelers would study European science, industry, government, manners, gender relations, military organization, and education with increasing urgency.
But I’tesamuddin belongs to the first stage.
He still writes from a Persianate Mughal world, not from nineteenth-century British colonial education. His comparisons are therefore not yet framed by the later reformist vocabulary of “modernization” in quite the same way.
He is closer to the old Indo-Persian intellectual world looking at the new European order.
That makes his voice rare.
Compared With Thomas Roe and Edward Terry
Thomas Roe and Edward Terry were Englishmen in Mughal India.
Roe came as ambassador to Jahangir. Terry came as Roe’s chaplain. Both wrote India for English readers. I’tesamuddin reverses their gaze.
Roe tried to understand Mughal court politics.
Terry tried to interpret Mughal India through Protestant morality.
I’tesamuddin tried to understand Britain through Indo-Persian Muslim categories.
Roe stood before Jahangir.
I’tesamuddin was supposed to carry Shah Alam’s voice to George III.
Roe shows England before it had power in India.
I’tesamuddin shows India after Company power had begun to overpower Mughal authority.
The contrast is devastating.
In Roe’s time, the English begged for Mughal permissions.
In I’tesamuddin’s time, the Mughal emperor’s letter to the British king could be withheld by a Company official.
That is the shift from commerce to empire.
Compared With William Hawkins
William Hawkins entered Jahangir’s court and tried to become legible inside Mughal India.
I’tesamuddin entered Britain and tried to understand the world of the Firinghees without losing himself.
Hawkins was the Englishman absorbed into Mughal hierarchy as “English Khan.”
I’tesamuddin was the Indian munshi whom English companions tried to persuade to stay, teach Persian, and marry into Britain.
Hawkins’s story asks: how did an Englishman survive Mughal court culture?
I’tesamuddin’s story asks: how did an Indian Muslim intellectual survive British social pressure?
Both stories are about cross-cultural incorporation.
Both men resisted and adapted in different ways.
Compared With Pietro Della Valle and Gemelli Careri
Pietro Della Valle and Gemelli Careri were Italian travelers who moved through Asia with curiosity, status, and a desire to turn experience into books.
I’tesamuddin was different because he was not moving from Europe into Asia. He moved from India into Europe. Della Valle and Gemelli often made Asian societies readable for European audiences. I’tesamuddin made Europe readable for Indo-Persian readers.
Della Valle calls himself the pilgrim.
Gemelli makes the world into a printed itinerary.
I’tesamuddin makes Britain into Vilayet — a land of wonder, power, disorder, theatre, education, and moral difference.
The comparison reveals something important:
Travel writing is not only about where one goes.
It is about who has the authority to describe whom.
I’tesamuddin claimed that authority for an Indian voice.
What I’tesamuddin Saw Clearly
I’tesamuddin saw that Europe’s power was not accidental.
He paid attention to education, labor, public institutions, political organization, discipline, urban life, and social energy. Orient BlackSwan notes that he wrote seriously about the factors behind India’s decline and Europe’s rise, as well as Britain’s socio-political system.
That makes him more than a collector of curiosities.
He was thinking historically.
He understood that something had shifted in the balance of power between India and Europe. He did not explain it in modern economic or colonial theory, but he knew it mattered. His travelogue is full of wonder because Europe is strange, but it is also full of anxiety because Europe is effective.
He admired what worked.
He criticized what offended him.
He returned still committed to his own values.
That combination makes him intellectually serious.
What He Misunderstood
I’tesamuddin also misunderstood much.
He saw Britain through elite Indo-Persian Muslim assumptions. He judged ordinary British life through his own moral codes. He sometimes generalized from limited experience. He was fascinated by theatrical and social spectacle, but those performances did not necessarily represent all British society. His view of women, labor, religion, and manners was shaped by his class, gender, faith, and education.
He also wrote from memory years after the journey.
The book is not a neutral ethnography of Britain. It is an Indo-Persian memoir of encounter, written after political disappointment and during a time of growing disorder in India.
But these limitations are part of its value.
They show how Britain looked to someone who was neither colonized in the later sense nor imperial in the European sense. He was a member of a fading but still proud Indo-Persian elite, watching the rise of a world that would soon dominate his own.
That makes his perspective irreplaceable.
The Meaning of the Failed Letter
The most symbolic object in I’tesamuddin’s story is the missing letter.
Shah Alam II’s letter to George III was supposed to create direct communication between the Mughal emperor and the British king. Clive’s withholding of it prevented that line from opening. Banglapedia explains that Clive had reason to prevent direct contact because it was in the Company’s interest to keep the Mughal emperor from reaching the British crown independently.
This letter is more than a diplomatic document.
It represents a historical crossroads.
Would the Mughal emperor speak directly to the British king?
Would the Company remain an intermediary or become a gatekeeper?
Would Indian sovereignty appeal beyond Company control?
Would the British crown hear India outside Company framing?
Clive’s action answered the question.
The Company would control the channel.
In that sense, the failed mission reveals the early architecture of colonial power: not only armies and revenue, but also control over communication.
Why Mirza Sheikh I’tesamuddin Still Matters
Mirza Sheikh I’tesamuddin matters because he gives us Europe before Indian eyes at a decisive historical moment.
He traveled west when Mughal authority had not vanished but had become dangerously dependent; when the East India Company was no longer merely a merchant body but not yet the full imperial state it would become; when Persianate learning still mattered; when Britain was strange, powerful, impressive, morally suspect, and politically important to Indian futures.
His Shigurf Nama-e-Vilayet is valuable because it reverses the archive. Instead of India being described by Europeans, Europe is described by an Indian Muslim munshi trained in Persian culture. London, Oxford, theatre, Scotland, women, religion, labor, social habits, and British politics become objects of wonder and judgment.
He also matters because his failed mission exposes the politics of empire before empire fully names itself. The Mughal emperor wanted to speak to the British king. Robert Clive blocked the letter. The Company controlled the route. Out of that failure came a travel book.
In the long history of travelers, Mirza Sheikh I’tesamuddin stands as the Vilayeti Munshi: the Bengali-Persian scholar who crossed the sea to Europe, saw Britain with curiosity and suspicion, returned without surrendering himself to the West, and left behind one of the earliest great South Asian mirrors held up to Europe.

Mirza Sheikh I’tesamuddin was an eighteenth-century Indo-Persian scholar, munshi, diplomat, Mughal courtier, and travel writer from Panchnoor in Nadia district, Bengal, probably born around 1730 and dead by around 1800. Trained in Persian and Islamic learning, he became a munshi at a time when Persian remained essential to administration, diplomacy, law, and elite political culture. His early career was spent largely in East India Company service under British officers, through which he witnessed campaigns, administrative work, and the changing politics of Bengal. After an audience with Emperor Shah Alam II and events around Kora-Manikpur, he was appointed munshi at the Mughal imperial court and received the title Mirza. Soon after, Shah Alam II chose him to accompany Captain Archibald Swinton on a diplomatic mission to Britain because the emperor wanted an Indian scholar of Persian present to explain his letter and request for British military protection to King George III. The mission collapsed because Robert Clive withheld the emperor’s letter and gift, preventing direct communication between the Mughal emperor and the British crown in order to protect the East India Company’s political interests. I’tesamuddin nevertheless continued the journey, leaving India in 1765–66 and returning in 1769–70 after visiting France, Britain, London, Oxford, Scotland, theatres, public entertainments, educational institutions, and British society. His Persian travelogue, Shigurf Nama-e-Vilayet, written around 1784, means “Wonderful Tales of Europe” or “Wonderful Tales of England” and is one of the earliest South Asian firsthand accounts of Europe. The work is important because it reverses the usual colonial travel gaze: instead of a European describing India, an Indian Muslim munshi describes Britain and Europe through Indo-Persian categories. He admires Britain’s organization, learning, public institutions, wealth, and energy, but he also criticizes European manners, moral habits, religious life, alcohol, public gender relations, and what he sees as the vulgarity of Firinghee society. He visits Oxford, which he understands through the category of a madrassah, watches plays and public entertainments, reflects on Britain’s socio-political system, and asks why Europe has risen while India has declined. His relationship with Swinton eventually deteriorates because Swinton and others fail to respect his Islamic and cultural identity, trying to persuade him to remain in England, teach Persian, and even marry an English woman; I’tesamuddin refuses and returns to India. Back home, he becomes known as the Vilayeti Munshi, reenters Company service, and later participates in diplomacy with the Marathas, including negotiations at Poona. His Persian manuscript survived in the British Library and Khuda Bukhsh Library; an abridged and flawed English translation by James Edward Alexander appeared in 1827, and Kaiser Haq later produced a modern English version titled The Wonders of Vilayet. I’tesamuddin matters because his journey captures a decisive historical turning point: the Mughal world was still alive, Persian intellectual culture still powerful, and Indian elites still self-confident, but Company control over communication, revenue, and diplomacy was rapidly remaking India’s future. His book remains one of the foundational reverse travelogues of South Asian literature, a rare moment when Europe became the strange land and an Indian scholar held the mirror.